ʻO ka pīhoihoi nui me nā kuahiwi, ʻaʻole ma ke ʻano he mea no ka pena ʻana i nā kahiki a i ʻole nā wahi no ka hele wāwae ʻana, i hoʻomaka i ka 19 kenekulia. ʻO kēia ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo "Golden Age of Mountaineering", ke mamao ʻole nā kuahiwi, kiʻekiʻe ʻole, a me ka weliweli ʻole. Akā ʻoiai ua ʻike ʻia nā mea mua o ka mauna. Ma hope o nā mea āpau, ʻaʻole i aʻo pono ʻia ka mana o ke kiʻekiʻe ma luna o ke kanaka, ʻaʻole i hana ʻia nā lole ʻoihana a me nā kāmaʻa, a ʻo ka poʻe wale nō i kipa aku i ka ʻĀkau Akau i ʻike e pili ana i ka meaʻai kūpono.
Me ka hoʻolaha ʻana o ka mauna i ka lehulehu, ua hoʻomaka ka hele ʻana i ka honua. A ʻo kahi hopena, hoʻomaka ka mauna mauna hoʻokūkū i ka makaʻu i ke ola. A laila ʻo nā pono hana hou loa, nā lako pono mau loa, a me nā meaʻai calorie kiʻekiʻe loa i hoʻōki i ke kōkua. Ma lalo o ka huaʻōlelo "Ma ke kiʻekiʻe e like me ka hiki, a me ka wikiwiki e hiki ai" ua hoʻomaka ka poʻe piʻi piʻi e make i nā manawa he nui. Hiki iā ʻoe ke helu i nā inoa o nā piʻina kaulana i hoʻopau i ko lākou mau kenekulia i kahi moe home ma ka lima hoʻokahi. Ke waiho nei ia i ka hoʻokupu i ko lākou koa a ʻike i nā mea piʻi mauna e make pinepine ai. Me he mea kūpono ʻole ke hoʻomohala i nā pae hoʻohālikelike no ka "lethality" o nā kuahiwi, no laila i loko o nā top 10 weliweli aia lākou i kahi ʻaneʻane i kahi kauoha kūpana.
1. Everest (8848 m, ka piko kiʻekiʻe 1 ma ka honua) aia ma ka piko o ka papa inoa no ka mahalo i ke poʻo inoa o ka mauna kiʻekiʻe loa ma ka Honua a me ka nui o ka poʻe e makemake e lanakila i kēia kuahiwi. Hāpai pū ka Massiveness i ka make nui. Ma nā ala piʻi piʻi, hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i nā kino o ka poʻe ʻilihune, i loaʻa ʻole kahi manawa e iho ai mai Everest mai. I kēia manawa aia ma kahi o 300. ʻAʻole hoʻoneʻe ʻia nā kino - pipiʻi a pilikia loa ia.
I kēia manawa, ua lanakila ka nui o ka poʻe iā Everest i kēlā me kēia lā i ke kau, a ʻo ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, i mea e piʻi mua ai ka piʻi mua, ua ʻoi aku ma mua o 30 mau makahiki. Ua hoʻomaka ka Pelekane i kēia moʻolelo i ka 1922, a ua hoʻopau lākou ia mea ma 1953. Kaulana ka moʻolelo o kēlā huakaʻi a ua wehewehe ʻia i nā manawa he nui. Ma ke ʻano he hopena o ka hana o kahi ʻumikūmālua piʻina a me 30 Sherpas, ʻo Ed Hillary lāua ʻo Sherpas Tenzing Norgay i lilo i naʻi aupuni mua loa ma Everest ma Mei 29.
2. Dhaulagiri I (8 167 m, 7) no ka manawa lōʻihi ʻaʻole hoihoi i ka manaʻo o nā piʻi mauna. ʻO kēia kuahiwi - ke poʻo nui o ka nui o nā mauna he ʻumikūmākahi me ke kiʻekiʻe o 7 a 8,000 m - i lilo i mea e aʻo ai a me kahi o nā huakaʻi i nā hopena wale nō o 1950. ʻO ka pali ʻākau hikina wale nō ka hiki ke piʻi i luna. Ma hope o ʻehiku mau hoʻāʻo kūleʻa ʻole e kūleʻa ai, ua hoʻokō ʻia ka hui kūwaho, ka mea ikaika loa ma laila ʻo Austrian Kurt Dieberger.
Ua lanakila ʻo Dimberger iā Broad Peak me Herman Buhl. Mahalo nui ʻia i ke kaila o ke kamaʻāina kaulana, ua hoʻohuli ʻo Kurt i kāna mau hoa e hele i ka piko mai kahi hoʻomoana ma kahi kiʻekiʻe o 7,400 m. Ua hoʻopakele ʻia ka poʻe piʻi i ka wā e luku mau ana. Ma hope o 400 m o kahi kiʻekiʻe ua lele i kahi squall ikaika, a huli i hope kahi hui o ʻekolu porters a me ʻehā mau piʻi. Ma hope o ke kūkā kamaʻilio ʻana, ua kūkulu lākou i ke ono o ka hoʻomoana ma kahi kiʻekiʻe o 7,800 m. Mai ia mea, piʻi ʻo Dimberger, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert a me nā Sherpas i ka piko ma Mei 13, 1960. ʻO Dimberger, ka mea i ʻaʻa i kona mau manamana lima i ka wā o ka hoʻouka kaua kūleʻa ʻole, koi ʻo ia e piʻi ke koena o ka huakaʻi iā Dhaulagiri, a he 10 mau lā ka lōʻihi. ʻO ka naʻi ʻana o Dhaulagiri i lilo i laʻana o ka hoʻonohonoho pono o kahi huakaʻi ʻano hoʻopuni, ke kākoʻo ʻia ka mākaukau o nā mea piʻi e ke kau manawa kūpono o nā ala, ka lawe ʻana i nā waiwai a me ka hoʻonohonoho ʻana o nā kahua hoʻomoana.
3. Annapurna (8091 m, 10) ka piko nui o ka Himalayan massif o ka inoa like, i loaʻa he mau tausani he ʻewalu kaukani. He paʻakikī loa ka mauna e piʻi mai kahi kikoʻī o ka ʻike - ʻaʻole lanakila ʻia ka ʻāpana hope loa o ka piʻi ʻana ma ka pali, akā aia ma lalo pono o ia mea, ʻo ia hoʻi, kiʻekiʻe loa ka makaʻu o ka hāʻule ʻana a i ʻole kū ʻia e kahi avalanche. Ma 2104, ua koi ʻo Annapurna i ke ola o 39 mau kānaka i ka manawa hoʻokahi. I ka hōʻuluʻulu ʻana, e like me ka helu helu, e make ana kēlā me kēia kolu i nā piʻi o kēia mauna.
ʻO ka mea mua e naʻi iā Annapurna ma 1950 ʻo Maurice Herzog lāua ʻo Louis Lachenal, ka mea i lilo i hui kūpilikiʻi o kahi huakaʻi Farani i hoʻonohonoho pono ʻia. I ke kumu, ʻo kahi hui maikaʻi wale nō i hoʻopakele i ke ola o nā mea ʻelua. Ua hele aku ʻo Lachenal lāua ʻo Erzog i ka ʻāpana hope loa o ka piʻi ʻana i nā kāmaʻa māmā, a ua nalowale nō hoʻi ʻo Erzog i kāna mau mīkini i ke ala e hoʻi ai. ʻO ka wiwo ʻole a me ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana o kā lākou mau hoapili ʻo Gaston Rebuffa lāua ʻo Lionel Terray, ka mea i hele pū me ka poʻe lanakila o ka piko hapalua o ka make mai ka luhi a me ka hau mai ke kahua hoʻomoana i kahi hoʻomoana kahua (me ka noho pō ʻana i loko o kahi māhū hau), hoʻopakele iā Erzog lāua ʻo Lachenal. Aia kekahi kauka i ke kahua hoʻomoana i hiki ke ʻokiʻoki i kona mau manamana lima a me nā manamana wāwae ma ia wahi.
4. Kanchenjunga (8586 m, 3), e like me Nanga Parbat, a hiki i ke Kaua Honua ʻElua i hoʻohuli i ka manaʻo o nā piʻina Kelemania nui. Nānā lākou i nā paia ʻekolu o kēia mauna, a holo pono ʻole ʻekolu mau manawa. A ma hope o ke kaua, pani ʻo Bhutan i kona mau palena, a waiho ʻia nā mea piʻi i kahi ala hoʻokahi e lanakila ai iā Kanchenjunga - mai ka hema.
He mea hoʻohoka nā hopena o ke ana ʻana o ka paia - aia kekahi aniani nui i waenakonu - no laila i ka makahiki 1955 ua kāhea ka poʻe Pelekania i kā lākou huakaʻi he mākaʻikaʻi mākaʻikaʻi, ʻoiai ma nā ʻano o ka haku mele a me nā pono ʻaʻole like ia me ka reconnaissance.
Kanchenjunga. ʻIke maopopo ʻia ke aniani i ka waena
Ma ka mauna, hana like nā mea piʻi a me Sherpas e like me ka hana ʻana o ka huakaʻi ʻo 1953 Everest: ka nānā hou ʻana, ke nānā ʻana i ke ala i loaʻa, piʻi a hoʻi i hope, e like me ka hopena. ʻO ka hoʻomākaukau ʻoi aku ka nui o ka manawa, akā mālama ka ikaika a me ke olakino o ka poʻe piʻi, e hāʻawi ana iā lākou i ka manawa kūpono e hoʻomaha ai i ke kahua hoʻomoana. A ʻo kahi hopena, ua puka mai ʻo 25 George Bend lāua ʻo Joe Brown mai kahi hoʻomoana o luna a uhi i ka mamao a hiki i luna. Pono lākou e huli i ke ʻoki ʻana i nā ʻanuʻu i ka hau, a laila piʻi ʻo Brown i 6 mau mika i luna a huki iā Benda ma kahi belay. I hoʻokahi lā ma hope, i ko lākou ala, ka lua o ka lua o ka hoʻouka kaua: Norman Hardy lāua ʻo Tony Streeter.
I kēia mau lā he ʻumikūmālua mau ala i kau ʻia ma Kanchenjunga, akā ʻaʻohe o lākou e hiki ke noʻonoʻo ʻia he maʻalahi a hilinaʻi hoʻi, no laila ke hoʻopiha mau ʻia ka martyrology o ka mauna.
5. Chogori (8614 m, 2), ʻoiai ka lua o ka piko o ka honua, ua hōʻino ʻia mai ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 20. No ka hapalua kenekulia, ua hoʻonāwaliwali ka piko paʻakikī ʻenehana i nā poʻe piʻi mai ka lanakila ʻana iā lākou iho. Ma 1954 wale nō, ʻo nā lālā o ka huakaʻi Italia ʻo Lino Lacedelli lāua ʻo Achille Compagnoni i lilo i paionia no ke ala i ka piko, a ua kapa ʻia ʻo K2.
E like me ka mea i hoʻokumu ʻia e nā noiʻi ma hope, ua hana ʻo Lacedelli a me Compagnoni, ma mua o ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana, e waiho mālie, ʻaʻole pili pū me ka hoa helehelena ʻo Walter Bonatti a me ka mea lawe Pakistan ʻo Mahdi. I ka manawa i lawe mai ai ʻo Bonatti lāua ʻo Mahdi me nā hoʻāʻo nui i nā paukū oxygen i kahi hoʻomoana o luna, ua hoʻōho ʻo Lacedelli lāua ʻo Compagnioni ma waena o ka pali hau e waiho i nā paukū a iho i lalo. Me ka hale lole ʻole, ʻaʻohe ʻeke moe, ʻaʻohe oxygen, Bonatti a me ka mea lawe puka i manaʻo ʻia e moe i ka pō ma kahi hoʻomoana o luna. Ma kahi o ka pō paʻakikī loa i loko o ka lua hau ma ka pali (ua hoʻopaʻa ʻo Mahdi i kona mau manamana lima āpau), a hōʻea ka wahine hōʻeha i ke kakahiaka i luna a iho i lalo me he koa lā. Ke kūʻē nei i ke kua o ka hoʻohanohano ʻana i nā naʻi aupuni ma ke ʻano he koa lāhui, ua like ka manaʻo huhū a Walter me ka lili, a he mau makahiki wale nō i hala, ua ʻae ʻo Lacedelli ua hewa ʻo ia a ua hoʻāʻo e kala aku Ua pane ʻo Bonatti ua hala ka manawa no ka noi kala ...
Ma hope o Chogori, hele a hilahila ʻo Walter Bonatti me nā poʻe a hele wāwae i nā ala ʻoʻoleʻa wale nō
6. Nanga Parbat (8125 m, 9) ʻoiai ma mua o ka lanakila mua, ua lilo ia i hale kupapaʻu no nā poʻe piʻi Kelemania he nui i hōʻeuʻeu kūʻē iā ia i kekahi mau huakaʻi. ʻO ka kiʻi ʻana i ka wāwae o ka mauna he hana nui ʻole ia mai kahi kuahiwi i ʻike ʻia, a me ka lanakila ʻana he mea hiki ʻole loa ia.
He mea kupaianaha ia no ke kaiāulu piʻi i ka makahiki 1953 ua lanakila ʻo Austrian Hermann Buhl iā Nanga Parbat ma kahi o Alpine style (ʻaneʻane māmā). I ka manawa like, ua hoʻonohonoho mamao ʻia ka hoʻomoana o luna mai ka piko - ma kahi kiʻekiʻe o 6,900 m. ʻO kēia ka manaʻo o ka hui ʻino, ʻo Buhl lāua ʻo Otto Kemper, e loaʻa 1,200 m i mea e lanakila ai ʻo Nanga Parbat. Ua huhū ʻo Kempter ma mua o ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana, a ma ka hola 2:30 o ke kakahiaka ua hele ʻo Buhl i ka piko me ka hapa iki o nā meaʻai a me nā ukana. Ma hope o 17 mau hola, ua kiʻi ʻo ia i kāna pahuhopu, kiʻi i kekahi mau kiʻi, hoʻoikaika i kona ikaika me pervitin (i kēlā mau makahiki he inu ikaika maoli ʻo ia ma ke kānāwai), a huli hoʻi ʻo ia. Ua noho ka Austrian i ka pō e kū ana, a ma ka hola 17:30, ua hoʻi ʻo ia i kahi hoʻomoana o luna, me ka hoʻopau ʻana i kekahi o nā piʻi kiʻekiʻe loa i ka moʻolelo o ka mauna.
7. Manaslu (8156 m, 8) ʻaʻole ia kahi piko paʻakikī no ka piʻi. Eia nō naʻe, no ka manawa lōʻihi e hoʻopio iā ia nā kamaʻāina kūloko, ke alualu ʻana i nā poʻe piʻi - ma hope o kekahi o nā huakaʻi i iho mai kahi avalanche, me ka luku ʻana ma kahi o 20 a me kekahi mau kamaʻāina.
I kekahi mau manawa ua hoʻāʻo ka huakaʻi Kepani e lawe i ka mauna. Ma ke ʻano he hopena o kekahi o lākou, ua lilo ʻo Toshio Ivanisi, me Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu, i naʻi aupuni mua ma Manaslu. I ka hoʻohanohano ʻana i kēia hoʻokō ʻana, ua hoʻopuka ʻia kahi kuʻina leka kūikawā i Iapana.
Hoʻomaka ka poʻe piʻi e make ma kēia kuahiwi ma hope o ka piʻi mua. Ke hāʻule nei i loko o nā māwae, e hāʻule ana ma lalo o nā avalanc, paʻa hau. He mea nui ka piʻi ʻana o ʻekolu mau Ukrainian i ka mauna i ke kaila Alpine (me ka ʻole o nā hoʻomoana), a ʻo Pole Andrzej Bargiel ʻaʻole i holo wale i Manaslu i nā hola 14, akā ua lele hoʻi i lalo mai ka piko. A ʻaʻole hiki i nā mea piʻi ʻē aʻe ke hoʻi me Manaslu ola ...
Manaʻo ʻo Andrzej Bargiel iā Manaslu ma ke ʻano he pali lele
8. ʻO Gasherbrum I (8080 m, 11) ʻaʻole hoʻouka kaua ʻia e nā poʻe piʻi - ʻike maka ʻole ʻia ka piko ma muli o nā piko kiʻekiʻe e hoʻopuni ana iā ia. Hiki iā ʻoe ke piʻi i ka piko nui o Gasherbrum mai nā ʻaoʻao ʻokoʻa a me nā ala ʻokoʻa. ʻOiai e hana ana ma kekahi o nā ala a hiki i luna, ua make kekahi kanaka ʻālapa Polani poʻokela ʻo Arthur Heizer ma Gasherbrum.
ʻO ka poʻe ʻAmelika, ʻo lākou ka mea mua e hehi i ka piko ma 1958, ua wehewehe i ka piʻi ʻana ma ke ʻano "ua kua mākou i nā ʻanuʻu a piʻi i nā pōhaku, akā ma aneʻi e holoholo wale mākou me kahi ʻekeʻeke kaumaha i loko o ka hau nui". ʻO ka piʻi mua i kēia mauna ʻo Peter Schenning. ʻO ka mea kaulana ʻo Reinhold Messner i piʻi mua i Gasherbrum i ke kaila Alpine me Peter Habeler, a laila i ka lā hoʻokahi i piʻi aʻe ʻo Gasherbrum I a me Gasherbrum II wale nō.
9. Makalu (8485 m, 8) he pōhaku granite e piʻi aʻe ma ka palena o Kina a me Nepal. ʻO kēlā me kēia huakaʻi ʻekolu a lilo i kūleʻa (ʻo ia hoʻi, ka piʻi ʻana i luna o hoʻokahi mea i komo) a Makalu. A ʻo ka poʻe kūleʻa e ʻeha pū kekahi. I ka makahiki 1997, i loko o ka huakaʻi lanakila, ua luku ʻia nā Lūkini ʻo Igor Bugachevsky lāua ʻo Salavat Khabibullin. ʻEhiku mau makahiki ma hope mai, ua make ka Ukrainian Vladislav Terzyul, ka mea nāna i lanakila mua iā Makalu.
ʻO ka poʻe i komo mua i ka piko ka lālā o ka huakaʻi i hoʻonohonoho ʻia e ka mea piʻi Farani kaulana ʻo Jean Franco i 1955. Ua mākaʻikaʻi ka Palani i ka paia ʻākau ma mua o ka manawa a i Mei ua lanakila nā lālā āpau o ka hui iā Makalu. Ua hoʻokele ʻo Franco, ua hana ʻo ia i nā kiʻi āpau e pono ai ma luna, e hoʻokuʻu i ke kāmela, i lele i lalo i ka pali kiʻekiʻe. ʻO ka euphoria mai ka lanakila ka mea nui loa i hoʻohuli ai ʻo Franco i kāna mau hoa e hoʻokau iā ia i lalo i kahi kaula, a loaʻa maoli kahi kiʻi paʻi kiʻi me nā mōʻī makamae. Minamina nō ka pau ʻole o nā hanana i ke kuahiwi me ka maikaʻi.
ʻO Jean Franco ma Makalu
10. ʻO Matterhorn (4478 m) ʻaʻole ia kekahi o nā piko kiʻekiʻe loa o ka honua, akā ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ka piʻi ʻana i kēia mauna ʻaoʻao ʻehā ma mua o nā tausani ʻehiku. ʻOiai ʻo ka hui mua, i piʻi i luna (ʻo ka pali o 40 kekelē ma ka Matterhorn i manaʻo ʻia he akahai) i ka piko ma 1865, ʻaʻole i hoʻi mai me ka ikaika - ʻehā o ʻehiku mau kānaka i make, me ke alakaʻi o Michelle Cro, ka mea i hele pū me ka mea piʻi mua ʻo Eduard Wimper i ka piko. Ua hoʻopiʻi ʻia nā alakaʻi ola i ka make o nā piʻi piʻi, akā ua hoʻokuʻu ka ʻaha i ka mea i hoʻopiʻi ʻia. Ua hala ma mua o 500 ka poʻe i make ma ka Matterhorn.
